如东海鲜闻名全国的主要原因

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  第一，如东海鲜的营养功能。如东拥有106公里绵长的海岸线，堤外滩涂辽阔，港汊纵横；近海沙洲众多，桁场密布，蕴藏着取之不尽的海产资源。加上海域地理位置优越，海潮涌浪高、落差太，浮游生物集中，水族饵料特别丰富，使得如东的海产具有其它地域难以企及的鲜美口味和独到的营养价值。随着物质生活水平的提高，人们的思想观念已从过去的只求温饱转移到注重营养上来。而如东的文蛤、蛏、梭子蟹、鱼、虾、泥螺等海产品却迎合了众人口味。比如文蛤，也叫车螫，是如东沿海滩涂贝类海鲜中的上品。南北朝陶弘景写的《神家本草经》中对其美味作过记述。宋朝诗人梅尧臣也曾有过“车熬与日蛤，寄自海陵郡”的诗句。清朝乾隆皇帝下江南在姑苏吃到文蛤时，御封它为“天下第一鲜”。这是因为它肉质鲜嫩、脍炙人口，含有人体所必需的氨基酸、钙、铁以及多种维生素等成份。其味鲜而不腻，久食不厌。其吃法也多种多样。或炝了吃、或做成文蛤酱吃，如产妇生了小孩没奶，用文蛤煨汤吃可催奶，百验百灵。又如泥螺，不仅可以用盐腌渍后生吃，也可以放点生姜、葱、米酒、糖、盐等佐料，然后将洗干净的泥螺倒在锅里炒了吃，味道可口，肉质鲜美。还有蛏、虾、鱼、蟹等。人人爱吃，百吃不厌，且食后令人回味无穷。
      第二，如东海鲜的益智功能。海鲜中含有优质的蛋白质和DHA，DHA是稀有的健脑益智物质，对提高人类的记忆力和思考力具有十分重要的作用，经常食用海鲜，能使人记忆力增强，智力开发。据了解，民间常以海参、虾米和冬虫夏草配烹用来补血养颜健脑，以蛎黄肉、鸡血配核桃煎煮汤羹对健脑益智、嫩肤养颜也有一定效果，即使最常见的海中小杂鱼虾，也都有提高记忆力和思考力的功效。近年来，如东高考成绩一直名列全省、全市的前茅。据营养学家考证，这与如东人常年吃海鲜不无关系。前几年，如东高级中学的高考状元苴镇的季晓莉同学，家就住在海边。她的爸爸从事近海捕捞，三天两头带些文蛤、泥螺、蟹、鱼、蛏、虾什么的回家。江苏省重点中学如东县栟茶中学每年在录取新生时，总喜欢优先录取沿海乡镇的学生，因为这些学生智力好，可塑性强。老师教的知识易接受和消化。因此，经常食用海鲜，能促使人大脑发育、记忆力增强。
      第三，如东海鲜的益寿功能。据资料考证，经常吃海鲜，能增强人的体质，提高免疫力，增强食欲。如生病患者，在治疗期间经常食用海鲜汤，可增强食欲，使身体早日康复。如是手术患者，还促使刀口平日痊愈。另外，常食海鲜还促使人健康长寿。从最近对内地和沿海的村民进行了的一次对比调查来看，在调查的20人中，内地人身体健康状况要比海边的村民低1.5个百分点，年龄大的也是住在海边。一位叫徐志英的老人，今年已过103岁，且身体比较硬朗，眼不花、耳不鸣。用她的话来说，就是她常年不离海鲜，如蟹、泥螺、鱼、虾、蟹渣等，如果一天不食海鲜，就感到心里好像缺少什么似的，同时还引起一些小病小痛，所以，海鲜是延年益寿的最佳食品。
      第四，如东海鲜的食疗功能。海产食物中含有优质的蛋白质，氨基酸品种齐全，比例适当，无机盐及微量元素钙、铁、磷、镁、硒、碘等含量丰富。尤其宝贵的是，海水鱼的肝油和作油中含有陆上动植物所不具有的高度不饱和脂肪酸EPA和DHA，而这类物质能够使人体血液中的脂肪酸谱向着健康的方向发展，并能减少血小板聚集，抗血凝、降血脂，保护心脑血管和神经系统。日本研究人员从紫菜、褐藻中提炼出一种纯度很高的保护人类免疫系统的U一岩藻多糖物质，从海带、贝类中也提炼出了硫酸脂、卵磷脂等抗癌物质。如东老百姓用得最多的是“软坚散结消肿解毒”食疗组方。常常以鲜文蛤、牡蛎肉、海带丝与茨姑片等配伍，制作成三鲜汤用作化瘀软坚，此法对乳腺癌也有一定的辅助疗效。一度时期，人们还常用无花果鲜果烧带鱼，或用田七红枣蒸鱼翅来治疗痈疮疥癣、外伤出血和无名肿毒等。用于“调阴壮阳补肾填精”的食疗组方在这里也较常见。如声名远播的海葵被称作“如东伟哥”，好客的如东人用它加枸杞煨汤招待客人，很受欢迎。民间还以蛤蜊肉配益母草煨制坤草汤，以草果、砂仁配海鳗红烧“吉祥鳗鱼”，乃至用被称为“试青盘”的黄鱼鳔炒田七、虾肉炒韭菜这类家常菜调治肾虚、辅治性功能衰退，此菜还能调治前列腺肥大一类男性疾患。文蛤含有丰富的EPA[甘（烷）五烯酸丁]和DHA（脱氧乙酸），具有预防脑梗死和心肌梗死的作用。最新研究发现文蛤还有很好的抗癌作用，对化疗后的恢复极有疗效。
      “目赤水肿、血虚便秘”是民间较常见的病痛，如东人用海参、鸽蛋配枸杞煨汤，用虾仁、蛏配芡粉做三鲜锅巴来解决这一问题。还以虾米、黄芪配当归党参，以带壳蛤蜊配豆腐、红花，以乌贼鱼、猪皮配大枣、三七，以鱼肚、猪蹄配核桃，炖熬成汤羹来辅治病经、带下、宫血之类的妇科常见病，有的据说止血止痛效果还相当灵验。
      如东海鲜食疗中治“咳嗽多痰咽喉疼痛”的验方也很多，如以鱿鱼丝跟健兰花、百合配伍烹炒，以沙参跟胖大海、水梨相配同煮再加冰糖做成汤汁，据说皆能治好咳嗽咽哑这类小毛小病。民间用于辅治心脑血管毛病的海鲜食疗方最多，如以海鱼配菊花做鱼丸，以草决明配海带、紫菜煲汤，以海蜇、黄瓜配杜仲凉拌，以海参、紫菜配木耳做汤羹，以海藻、紫菜配杜仲做蛋夹，经常食用对祛火益气、降脂降压、保护心脑血管都很有效果。文蛤中富含钙、磷、铁、蛋白质、维生素A以及抗坏血酸、核黄素、尼克酸。《医林纂要》中记载“功同蚌蚬，滋阴明目”。《本草会编》中说“蛤蜊其性滋润而助津液，故能润五脏，止消渴、开胃”。
      第五，如东海鲜的美容功能。文蛤所含氨基酸、糖类、蛋白质、无机盐、维生素等是人体皮肤必需要的营养物质。它们不但保证皮脂腺分泌旺盛，汗腺分泌活动增加，真皮基质细胞的数量增多，而且还有延续这些功能的效果。常食文蛤肉，能保证人体面部皮肤润泽光亮，青春常驻，是美容不可多得的佳品。民谚、古今医药文献都有论述。古今医药家认为文蛤与珍珠、牡蛎有相似的成份和功用。民谚云：“南坡高，北坎低，沙鱼坝出娇妻”，说的就是如东海滨渔村妇女的“美容”现象，解开了海滨妇女终日劳作不歇，能有一副娇容的难解之谜。
      据调查，如东海滨渔村妇女生活的环境并无优越之处，终日海风吹、烈日晒，但她们能保持其娇容，特异之处就是她们嗜食海鲜，优先的条件可使他们随时可啖。尤其是文蛤，她们可以亲到海边采拾；在饥渴时，往往是随手掰劈，生吞文蛤肉，原汁原味，鲜嫩无比。只有她们才能得天独厚地尝到这种美味。据她们的亲口体味：文蛤肉离开了蛤壳就有一种腥味。如将文蛤肉腌酱、煮汤、煨白水肉做鲜味佐料，炒文蛤肉、做文蛤饼等毫不稀罕，家常便饭。正因如此，她们吃出了健康，吃出了妩媚的娇容。
      追溯古代医药，文蛤被二千多年前的《神农本草经》列为中品，清代中医药学家汪昂《本草备要》云：“牡蛎、蛤蜊、海蛤、文蛤并出海中，大抵海物咸寒，功用略同。”并引证陆佃语：“蛤蚌无阴阳牝牡，须雀化成，故能生珠。”明代李时珍将海蛤、魁蛤、珍珠牡蛎列为生津润燥之剂。对肌肤具有润泽养颜的功效。近代中医药家叶枯泉谓：蛤蜊肉，润五脏，为营养品。此语说明了文蛤与珍珠、牡蛎有相似的成份和功用。
      李时珍《本草纲目》云：“牡蛎丸服，令面白。”“珍珠和乳敷面，去黑手、润泽。”陆佃云：“珍珠涂面好颜色。”旧时宫廷的皇后嫔妃在太医的推荐下，食珍珠粉，养容驻色。清末慈禧太后常食珍珠粉数十年不辍，迨至古稀之岁，仍容光焕发，青春常驻。
      近代中医药学家叶枯泉著《食物中药与处方》云：蛤蜊（文蛤）内含箊酸。据近代药理学认为：菸酸不但可以防治皮肤粗糙；而且具有扩张血管使面部红润的作用。据此，菸酸对皮肤营养供应通道的畅通，保证皮肤营养的供养，堪具奇功。

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